ASTANA – The life of the Kazakh people has always been marked by resilience, shaped by constant migrations, clashes with hostile tribes, and the harsh conditions of the Kazakh steppe. Yet, even in the face of adversity, the Kazakhs infused their food with deep cultural and spiritual significance, crafting dishes that not only nourished the body but also uplifted the soul. In today’s more convenient world, it’s difficult to fully appreciate the depth of that connection.
Chekanin shares the inspiration behind his signature set with The Astana Times’ Aida Haidar. Photo credit: The Astana Times
For Evgeniy Chekanin, a 33-year-old chef at the renowned Selfie restaurant in Astana, Kazakh cuisine has become a profound source of inspiration. Selfie, a branch of the celebrated Moscow restaurant recognized among The World’s Best Restaurants, has allowed Chekanin to explore and reinterpret the spirit of this nomadic heritage through the lens of modern culinary artistry.
In an interview with The Astana Times, Chekanin shared how deeply he was inspired by the culture and natural beauty of Kazakhstan.
Chekanin explained that his set, Winds, Blowing from North to South, reflects his journey across Kazakhstan. Photo credit: Selfie’s archive
“I was truly moved by how people here cherish their traditions. It was a mix of admiration and awe — Kazakhstan’s vast beauty, from the forests in the north to the steppes in the south, really left a lasting impression on me. My trips to Burabay and Turkistan were especially impactful,” he said.
Chekanin explained that his set, aptly named Winds, Blowing from North to South, reflects this journey, incorporating ingredients from across the country.
“We gathered products from every corner—Balkhash pike perch, Oskemen lemons, and mushrooms from Almaty. The entire experience was inspired by the essence of Kazakhstan,” he said.
Chekanin revealed that his family’s roots date back to 1856 when they were noted as wealthy merchants in Moscow, where they owned a tea house near Tsvetnoy Boulevard. Although many details have been lost over time, Chekanin cherishes the knowledge of his family’s deep connection to the city. Despite the challenges faced during the 1917 revolution, which forced some of his ancestors to relocate, the legacy of his family’s entrepreneurial spirit remains a significant part of his story.
Chekanin shared that his culinary journey began by following in the footsteps of his older cousin, who initially inspired him to pursue a career in gastronomy. Although he wasn’t particularly passionate about it at first, he came to appreciate the immense creativity and dedication that the profession demands over time.
“I never imagined that one day I would work alongside renowned chefs like Vladimir Mukhin and Anatoly Kazakov — names I had only heard of in passing. Now, at 33, I am constantly learning from my team and other chefs. Gastronomy is an ever-evolving field. There’s always more to discover and master,” he noted.
Winds, Blowing from North to South
Baursak, shaped like a shanyrak, the symbolic centerpiece of a yurt, and served with black caviar and morel tea. Photo credit: Selfie’s archive
It is this commitment to continuous discoveries that Chekanin channels into his signature set, a culinary journey through Kazakh culture featuring eight meticulously crafted dishes. One highlight is the baursak (puffy fried bread), shaped like a shanyrak, the symbolic centerpiece of a yurt, and served with black caviar and morel tea.
“My set is a little bit of everything. The first time I saw a yurt, I learned about the shanyrak. I thought, ‘This is cool, I have a similar baking form,’ and we made baursak in the shape of a shanyrak as the first course,” he explained.
Another standout is horse meat tartare paired with flaxseed chips shaped like the traditional torsyk, a vessel used by nomadic Kazakhs. Researching items like the torsyk, he thought, “Why not pair horse meat with a torsyk?” capturing the essence of Kazakh nomadic life, where people always carried their torsyk as they traveled on horseback.
Flaxseed chips shaped like the traditional torsyk, a vessel used by nomadic Kazakhs. Photo credit: Selfie’s archive
“I first came across a torsyk during a trip to Turkistan. It’s nearly 200 years old and, as you might expect, the leather shows signs of wear. But that’s what makes it so remarkable. It’s a powerful reminder of how deeply people value their traditions, preserving these items through generations despite the passage of time,” Chekanin reflected.
The set also includes morel sweets, among other innovative creations. Chekanin emphasized that nearly 80% of the ingredients used in the set are sourced locally, showcasing his commitment to honoring Kazakhstan’s rich culinary heritage.
Another standout creation, which the author of this article found particularly delightful, is Chekanin’s ice cream infused with the rich flavor of Kazakh tea with milk, made from irimshik, a traditional Kazakh cheese. This fresh cheese, crafted from the whey of fermented milk, boasts a soft, crumbly texture and a mild flavor that pairs beautifully with the dessert. Chekanin’s ice cream is artfully topped with shaved zhent, a traditional treat made from crushed wheat mixed with sugar and butter, creating a delightful contrast.
Chekanin’s ice cream infused with the rich flavor of Kazakh tea with milk. Photo credit: Selfie’s archive
The preparation is straightforward yet deeply satisfying. Chekanin masterfully infuses the ice cream with the comforting essence of milk tea, a beloved staple in Kazakh homes. He uses a siphon to achieve a velvety texture.
“There are no secrets in what we do,” he shared.
Chekanin’s culinary journey took an unexpected turn during a trip to Burabay, where he found the inspiration for a dish that, while not yet part of his menu, became a crucial starting point for his creative process.
“When we arrived in Burabay, I was surprised to see mountains in the middle of the steppe. I had no idea about them,” Chekanin recalled.
The local legend of how these mountains appeared played a key role in shaping his vision. Initially, he planned to serve an appetizer in specially designed dishes resembling meteorites, tying into the legend of a meteorite forming the area.
“We poured alcohol on the dish, set it on fire—it was like the meteorite burning,” he shared, offering a glimpse into his creative process.
Burabay also left a lasting impression with its abundant fish and crayfish, which Chekanin experienced in a setting brimming with atmosphere.
“We went down to the basement somewhere, and my boss enthusiastically said, ‘We’re here to eat fresh water fish!’ They spread out a newspaper, brought beer—though I don’t drink, they even found me lemonade. It was unforgettable,” he said, reflecting on the unique charm of the place.
A trip to Turkistan opened his eyes to the striking contrasts within Kazakhstan. From the modern skyline of Astana, where he often enjoys moments of calm gazing out from the 18th floor of the restaurant, to the vibrant and ancient architecture of Turkistan, the journey left a lasting impression.
“It’s completely different, but I really liked it. The architecture is ancient, and the colors—there’s no way to describe how beautiful it was. The contrast was incredible and left me feeling inspired,” he shared.
Evgeniy Chekanin thrives on these moments of inspiration, drawing from the beauty around him to fuel his creativity.
“I love when something feels so extraordinary—it pushes me to create. It inspires me in a way that I just get excited. I want to do something, to come up with something new,” he revealed, his enthusiasm palpable.
Chekanin’s ability to recognize the extraordinary in various places has unveiled the beauty of Kazakhstan, even though it is not his native land. This newfound appreciation allowed him to tap into his potential as a chef.
Stay tuned for part two of the interview.
